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The fog purred around our legs as we left the
café. Driving north from Lions Bay, the
instruments gave off an eerie glow against the
absolute darkness of the velvety night. Past the
twinkling lamps of the exclusive Furry Creek Golf
Course, we entered the dark tunnel of a rough
mountain road.
Somehow the
night became darker. Dave and I sifted through my
information for this area. Despite five maps and
three descriptions nothing matched. Finding a
clearing we gratefully called it home and bedded
down for the night. Each downpour woke me. I
curled deeper into my sleeping bag, secure under
the truck canopy, hoping my companions were as
comfortable in their tents.
The next morning, we waited for light. Faced with
a horrendous brush-bash through dripping dense
undergrowth, my companions opted to humor me
instead with a short visit down to the lakes to
look for animal sign. Giving up any hope of
getting up Capilano Mountain this day, we decided
to at least look for the trailhead described in a
40 year old account that I had. Bumping and
scraping back down the road Dave spotted an old
spur to the east. It didn’t look that bad but a
"Road Permanently Abandoned" sign made us queasy
as we crossed a bridge. Much scraping and a 12
point turnaround on the overgrown road marked the
beginning of our hike.
I had calculated that we should reach the old
trailhead about 11 AM. 10:45 we began looking into
the forest with dismal expectation. 10:59,
nothing, 11:00. Astounding! A small plastic sign.
"Beth Lake Trail." We were truly amazed. No hint
we were even on the right road, much less that we
would be able to find an actual trailhead.
Bounding up, the steep but well maintained track
led us into a beautiful old growth forest.
Stopping for a snack, we discussed our good
fortune. Fog still drifted visibly through the
trees. Lovely sunbeams peaked in and out like
bashful sprites trying to catch a glimpse of us. A
few minutes more and we reached Beth Lake. The
setting was dramatic: towering cliffs, hanging
meadows, cirques within cirques. We spread out on
a warm grassy patch and drank deeply of our first
golden sunlight of the day. Blue sky and rocky
ridges beckoned to us.
Rather than forcing us up the vertical cliffs, the
fainter but well marked route ducked around the
outfall of the lake and brought us up wooded
ridges to picturesque meadows. An open rocky basin
easily led up to a thin wooded ridge where we
popped out into a world of sun, white granite, and
emerald tarns. The views opened up, Tantalus
Range, Goat Ridge, Garibaldi, Skypilot, and to the
south, like islands in a soft grey sea of clouds,
the site of yesterday’s adventure, The Lions. We
danced along this alpine track, stopping often to
relish the warmth of the sun, the scent of the
heathery meadows, and the unique views.
It took a while before we viewed the true summit,
a large heather spotted dome of granite. This way
and that, we followed the cairns. I tried to keep
ahead, finding the wrong turns to save my
companions any lost effort. We were tiring now; it
had been a long two days. Below me I could see
their heads bobbing as they stopped to catch their
breath. A few words drifted up to me. "long
day...suppose to be easy... much further?....push
him off..." I nervously shouted encouragement,
"almost there, just a few more feet, a couple
minutes more, just around the corner." Dave and I
developed a nice litany of this. I’m not sure
Maria was as amused. About 2 PM we actually did
reach the top. Boots off, lie down on the warm
clean rock, feast on the 360 views. Indian River,
Coast Mountains, Sunshine Coast, endless.
Reluctantly, but thinking about the lateness of
the hour, we set off. Unexpectedly, the long day’s
ascent flashed by on the way down. It seemed like
a short time before we took our last look from the
sunny ridge before dropping down into the basins
and meadows leading to the lake. A short pause at
the dramatic setting of the lake and then it was
down through forest and fog. The final obstacle,
the waterbars, had to be dealt with. Standing my
big truck up on its nose, with Dave spotting from
outside, we dragged our way down to the bridge.
From there it was easy going, dinner at Horseshoe
Bay, and a relaxing drive home. What a weekend.
What great companions. What a superb end to
summer. On Monday the storms of October arrived,
but the images of golden sun, white granite, and
emerald tarns were still fresh in my mind. |